Gyaros, a Greek island shrouded in a dark and violent past, has emerged as a beacon of hope for wildlife conservation. Once a military prison and naval firing range, the island's isolation and human absence have inadvertently created a sanctuary for rare species, including the Mediterranean monk seal and the Yelkouan shearwater. This article delves into the island's unique story, exploring the interplay between its history, the challenges it faces, and the potential for its conservation to inspire broader marine protection efforts in the Mediterranean.
A History of Isolation and Violence
Gyaros' history is a tale of oppression and punishment. Used as an exile for political prisoners since Roman times, the island's most brutal chapter began in 1948 when the Greek state turned it into a prison for dissidents. Prisoners, forced to live in tents through sweltering summers and freezing winters, labored to build the prison's brick walls. The second wave of imprisonment occurred during the military dictatorship of the 'colonels' from 1967 to 1974, where Gyaros served as a place of forced labor and torture, tucked away from critical eyes.
A Wildlife Haven
After the junta fell in 1974, the navy used the island as a bombing range until 2002. It still has no hotels, ferry connections, or residents. This human absence, almost by accident, provided the strongest possible protection for the island's wildlife. In 2004, a photograph of a monk seal mother and pup lounging on an open beach in broad daylight sparked scientific interest in Gyaros. This image, taken by an amateur speargun fisherman, revealed a substantial colony of around 70 adult seals, possibly the largest in the Mediterranean at the time.
The Mediterranean Monk Seal: A Species on the Brink
The Mediterranean monk seal, once a common species, had collapsed to just 350-450 individuals by the late 20th century. Hunted for centuries for their fur, meat, and blubber, coastal development destroyed their habitat, while fishermen killed them in retaliation for raiding their nets. The absence of human activity on Gyaros, combined with the navy's ban on fishing, created a rich feeding ground for the seals, allowing them to thrive in a way that was not possible elsewhere.
The Yelkouan Shearwater: A Delicate Balance
In 2015, researchers from WWF heard a group of Yelkouan shearwaters approaching Gyaros at night. This discovery revealed the existence of the second-largest colony of these black-and-white seabirds in the world, accounting for 15% of the global population. The inaccessibility of the island's cracks and crevices, a habitat untouched by humans, has allowed the shearwaters to thrive. However, introduced rats and feral pigs pose significant threats to the colony, with up to a third of eggs lost to rats and adult birds preyed upon by pigs.
The Delicate Balance of Marine Life
While the seagrass meadows around Gyaros are mostly healthy, the reefs are not. Overfishing elsewhere has removed large predators like groupers and sea bream, leading to smaller fish overgrazing algal forests, which form the basis of the entire ecosystem. Scientists are now actively restoring the reefs by planting lab-cultivated algae, but the process is slow, and many fish are still immature.
Political Challenges and Conservation Efforts
Even after Gyaros was designated an MPA, local small-scale fishing remained permitted seasonally, under strict conditions. However, in 2022, under pressure from fishing organizations, the government opened the area, leading to a free-for-all that quickly impacted fish and seals. The government soon reversed course, declaring the island a strict no-take zone. However, scientists remain concerned that the Natural Environment and Climate Change Agency (Necca) lacks sufficient capacity to protect the island.
The Way Forward: A Thousand Gyaroses
Gyaros is an island of hope, but it cannot be a stand-alone solution. While Greece has protected 18% of its marine territory, only a small fraction is actively managed. A proper plan is needed for how different parts of the sea are used, so fishing, shipping, tourism, and conservation don't end up working against each other. The participatory process used to design Gyaros' protected area gives a good example for others to follow, bringing together stakeholders to discuss what they feel Gyaros is for them and what is necessary to be done.
Conclusion: A Thousand Gyaroses
As the speedboat turns away from the island, the abandoned prison fades into the distance. Somewhere near the caves below, monk seals nurse their pups on open shores. Gyaros is an island of hope, but it needs a thousand Gyaroses across Greece to make a real difference. With proper management and a broader conservation effort, the Mediterranean can become a haven for wildlife, just as Gyaros has become one for the rare species that call it home.
